The question now was to decide on the place where the first mission should be established. Across Lake Nyanza, on the southern shore of which they had pitched their camp, lay Uganda, but how far was Mtesa, the king of Uganda, likely to justify the opinion which Stanley had formed of him? The best thing, it was decided, would be to send some of the "askaris," or native guards, to obtain permission from Mtesa for the missionaries to settle in his kingdom. If it were granted, they would then ask him to send some boats in which the little party could transport themselves and their baggage to the northern shore. The chief or king of Kagei, the country in which they were, possessed a boat large enough to carry the askaris across to Uganda. He was ready to hire it to the white men, and, as it was rather leaky, it was at once put under repair.

Uganda Today

When at last it was ready, Father Lourdel begged to be allowed to accompany the little expedition, and to take the lay-brother, Frere Amans, with him. The askaris, he urged, were all more or less in league with the Arabs, arch-enemies of white men and—still more of Christian influence in the country. It was more than likely that they would misrepresent the matter to Mtesa and prejudice him against the missionaries rather than in their favour. The success of their enterprise depended wholly on his answer; it was too dangerous to leave it to such untrustworthy ambassadors. The suggestion was received with approval; Father Lourdel knew the language better than the rest; he was well on the way to recovery from the last attack of fever, and he had a certain gift for dealing with the natives. It was decided that he and Frere Amans should join the party, and take with them some of the presents which had been provided for the king.

The decision proved its wisdom, for had they set out alone, the askaris would never have reached Uganda. The crossing of the lake took twenty eight days, during which the boat nearly foundered in a storm, and leaked persistently. The crew were continually landing to mend her, the food supply threatened to give out, the rowers finally rebelled and refused to go any further. But the energy and determination of Father Lourdel controlled the situation. When circumstances demanded it and he rose to his full height both physically and morally, the crew realised that they were in the grip of a power against which it was useless to struggle. When, at last, they did land on the northern shore of the lake, the boat literally fell to pieces. There could be no question of a return journey in the patched-up remains.


Crossing the Lake to Uganda


The religious situation in Uganda was not without its difficulties. Some eight years earlier, Suna, Mtesa's father, had invited the Arabs to his kingdom and shown an inclination to adopt Mohammedanism. Mtesa had been influenced in the same direction, but, in 1875, on the arrival of Stanley, who did his best to convert him to Christianity, he had apparently changed his mind. Mtesa was both shrewd and intelligent and something of a diplomat. He at once realised that the civilisation of the west was a stronger thing than Islam, and prepared to throw in his lot with the stronger power. He declared that the Bible was to be preferred to the Koran, welcomed the Protestant missionaries who had responded to Stanley's appeal and authorised them to give periodical Bible readings at his Court. The Arabs, who had built a mosque at Rubaga, the capital of the king, watched these proceedings with a growing hostility, and vowed an undying hatred to the white men, whom they looked on as their enemies and rivals.

Click here for an up-to-date map of Uganda

Totally ignorant of the court etiquette of Uganda, Father Lourdel unwittingly risked the success of his enterprise by arriving unannounced in Mtesa's kingdom. The appearance of a white stranger, of unusual height and commanding aspect, created a great sensation among the country people, who believed that one of their old pagan gods had become incarnate. Mtesa was intensely curious, and not a little suspicious as to what the intentions of the new arrival might be. Several people undertook to enlighten him—to the disadvantage of the stranger—but Mtesa was a man who liked to judge of things for himself. He assigned a hut—in very bad condition—to the two travellers, and sent guards to see that they remained inside it.

After a fortnight's confinement, during which both men were attacked by fever, and nursed each other alternately, Father Lourdel was informed that it was the king's pleasure to grant him an interview. Having offered his gifts, he explained that his superior, who had remained on the south coast of the lake, had sent him to offer his respectful homage to the king, and to ask his permission to found a Catholic mission in his country. After a good deal of discussion the required permission was granted, and boats were promised. The two missionaries were provided with a better lodging and supplied with food every day by Mtesa's servants.

In Africa no one hurries, and it was four months before the promised boats reached Kagei, months of weary waiting and anxiety for those left behind, who did not know whether their companions were alive or dead, or whether they had ever reached their journey's end. As their wretched tent sheltered them neither from the sun nor from the rain, they had bought for a small sum a little hut made of boughs and dried grass. Here, to their great consolation, they were able to say Mass, on the days, at least, when they were not laid low by fever. A little bundle of letters, the first they had received for over a year from France and Algiers, was another comfort, while day after day they looked across the great inland sea, praying and longing for news of their comrades, and for the success of the enterprise on which their future work depended.

On the I 7th of February—a month after Father Lourdel's departure, they received the first communication from him—a note brought by some travelling merchants. He had not yet succeeded in crossing the lake. A fortnight later, Father Livinhac heard from the captain of a boat belonging to the Protestant missionaries that two white men had been seen on the Uganda coast. After that nothing more was heard until the 31st of May, when a little fleet of boats was espied in the distance. They hardly dared hope at first, so often had they been disappointed, but the familiar face of Brother Amans, who was leading the expedition, soon put an end to doubt, and every heart was full of thanksgiving. The crossing of the lake had taken, as before, twenty eight days, but all the news was good. Brother Amans, in spite of all his adventures, looked better than when he had set out, and Father Lourdel, he declared, was fairly well.

All day long the little hut of the missionaries was thronged with visitors from Uganda, who, eager to see the strangers, had escorted Brother Amans on his way. They were genial and friendly, assuring the white men that Mtesa was ready to welcome them in his kingdom. But best of all, there was a long letter from Father Lourdel, giving a full account of all that had happened since he had left them.

"I will spare you the description of my voyage," he wrote, "after Stanley's it would be tame; I will merely mention that native navigation on Lake Nyanza suggests the travels of Aeneas. The rowers keep prudently within reach of the shore, being aware of the condition of our craft. At nightfall they pull the boat up on the sand, where they make a camp, and start again next morning. At such a rate you can understand why progress is slow." He described his meeting with Mtesa, adding the good news that he had already been able to preach several times in public. Mtesa, he said, had great authority and power in the country; his friendship and alliance were eagerly sought after, by the other chiefs and kings. He was an adept at diplomacy; very conscious of his own dignity, and very sensitive to anything which touched it. He was inclined to be suspicious, especially of anything which looked like an infringement of his rights. The slightest attempt to act without his authority was sure to draw down his displeasure. But he had seemed to be friendly, and had invited Father Lourdel to choose a site for their mission.

"It is very important that it should be at Rubaga," adds Father Lourdel, "'for it is customary to go nearly every day to pay one's respects to the king, if one is a person of any importance. The houses here, or rather huts, are built of reeds instead of mud, on account of the frequent rains. The principal, indeed almost the only food, is the unripe banana, which when cooked, tastes and looks rather like a potato. I have scarcely eaten anything else since my arrival and have kept fairly well on it. Up to the present we have remained on friendly terms with the Arabs. From what I have as yet seen, the principal virtues we shall have to practise in this country are patience and prudence. In missions where the power is in the hands of petty chiefs, it may be necessary to make one's authority respected, but here the king is a real autocrat, accustomed to be obeyed in all things and to see everyone at his feet. To try to carry things with a high hand would be disastrous. We shall have to wait patiently, to do what we can when he is in good dispositions, to devote ourselves quietly to our apostolate. Paganism has been rooted here for centuries, it will take long to overcome it. The regeneration of a whole race is bound to be a long process if it is to be permanent. But come quickly, for the fields are white unto harvest; and the natives are full of the energy which is so sadly wanting in many of the other races of Africa."

Was Father Lourdel as he wrote these lines, thinking of the last words of their great founder, Cardinal Lavigerie, as he sent them on their distant mission? "Your work will be all in vain," he had said, "if it is not founded on self-conquest and personal holiness. The thought of God—the thought of the life to come—alone will have power to sustain your weakness and suffering. Remember that you are neither travellers, explorers, tourists, nor scientists. You are apostles—on the track of souls. Your weakness, if it be stayed on God, will be strength; Charity towards each other, and towards all men, must be your distinguishing mark; let the spirit of faith be in all your dealings. And do not expect too much of your first converts; do not be discouraged at their shortcomings—they will be many. Be pitiful, and do not break the bruised reed; sustain their weakness, do not blame it. While hoping for better things in the next generation, be very patient with the first."

A few days after the arrival of the boats the little company set out, with bag and baggage, for Uganda, where they arrived safely on the 17th of June, to the great joy of Father Lourdel. The situation he warned them, had its difficulties. Though the king seemed as friendly as could be wished, some of the pagan officials of his court were bitterly hostile. The Arabs, too, who were aware of the strong feeling which had been aroused by Stanley's report on the slave trade, saw in every white man an enemy to their wealth and their influence. After a long talk with Father Lourdel they decided to inaugurate their mission with a novena to Our Lady, under whose protection they placed themselves and their work for souls.